• The_v@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    9
    arrow-down
    1
    ·
    6 months ago

    First off that’s not a watermelon. It’s a Cucurbita sp.

    That is extreme nitrogen deficiency. It needs a big dose of fertilizer.

    Transplanting watermelons and other cucurbits is highly effective if done correctly. It’s commonly messed up.

    First off you should only start them 3 weeks before you want to transplant them. It takes 3-4 weeks for most cucurbits to be ready to transplant.

    Week 1: Seed and allow to to germination at around 80F.

    Week 2: Fertilize and first true leaf should emerge. If the cotyledon turns yellow, it’s under-fertilized.

    Week 3: They need to go outside for hardening off. The 2nd true leaf should develop

    Transplant: They do best when transplanted at 3rd-4th true leaf. Plant them so that the cotyledons are level with the soil surface. Transplanting larger plants increases transplant shock and slows down their development.

    • IMALlama@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      2
      ·
      6 months ago

      I discovered that the reason some of my starts were yellow this year was due to poor drainage and over watering :( we have tons of happy house plans, but I had it in my head that small pot + lots of grow light must mean high water needs.

      • SchmidtGenetics@lemmy.worldOP
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        2
        arrow-down
        2
        ·
        6 months ago

        Shit yeah it could be over watering, they were pretty good until I sent them out to harden, but it’s been rainy as well, but if I don’t start they’ll never get outside or hardened before it’s 35c either. Damned either way haha

    • SchmidtGenetics@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      edit-2
      6 months ago

      Its 100% watermelon the only gourds I started are pumpkins and they were only 1 seed per pod.

      And yes you’re right, but without starting them extra early you won’t be able to get the crop to finish in time here, the can go on the ground last week, but can still frost for another week here. So the advice is start 6 weeks before last frost. And life and nature has been getting in the way, so here we are.

      • The_v@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        2
        arrow-down
        1
        ·
        6 months ago

        Sorry, but it’s 100% a pumpkin. When the flowers open up in a few days compare them to pictures of male flowers of pumpkins versus watermelons.

        It’s counter-intuitive but starting them 6 weeks early actually delays how fast cucurbits develop in the field. The larger the cucurbits plant is, the more severely they are affected by transplant shock. I don’t know where you got your recommendation from, but it’s incorrect.

        • SchmidtGenetics@lemmy.worldOP
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          2
          arrow-down
          3
          ·
          edit-2
          6 months ago

          The fact that our growing window is not even 90 days so it’s the only way to grow any gourds and stuff like that.

          They could be cantaloupes… but only one of those started.

  • TammyTobacco@lemmy.ml
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    7
    ·
    6 months ago

    Plant it. It looks like it’s either starving for nitrogen or maybe has a watering issue. Probably starving for nitrogen.

    • SchmidtGenetics@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      3
      arrow-down
      1
      ·
      6 months ago

      I was worried about the soil, it’s from last year and was outside, so I was thinking the nutrients had been leached out. I don’t think it’s gonna recover if it’s shock, so I was thinking it was worth the try to plant it with some transplant nutrients and if it shocks or gets frosted it is what it is. I’ve got others for these reasons.

      I started hardening them this week, and it’s been rainy, but I’ve kinda gotta start now for next week. So could be multiple things. The adventures of gardening.

  • ThrowawaySobriquet@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    3
    ·
    edit-2
    6 months ago

    Watermelon don’t really like being transplanted. Best to direct sow. Of course, your zone is a problem for that, but this guy I’d give up on. The window you have to hope it recovers is pretty small.

    I’m trying some watermelon transplants myself. Seeing if I put them in young if they’ll get over the shock faster or not. They’ve only been in a week, but they’re definitely looking a bit sad. Good color, but the growth is still slow, leaves curled a bit. I’ll get some pics when I get home.

    *(I’m still working on doing melons on purpose. My kost successful guys have been volunteers)

    • ThrowawaySobriquet@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      3
      ·
      6 months ago

      My experimental melon childs. Put them down pretty much the second I saw a primary start pushing out. The first one is starting to look a little better, but the second guy is curling in a weird way. It gets less sun than the other

    • SchmidtGenetics@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      2
      arrow-down
      1
      ·
      6 months ago

      You get it haha, yeah could be spent soil, or it’s been rainy while hardening, so multiple things. I was hoping maybe there was something specific, but if it’s try transplanting it with some nutrients and sending it, worth the shot.

        • SchmidtGenetics@lemmy.worldOP
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          1
          arrow-down
          1
          ·
          edit-2
          6 months ago

          You realize cannabis nutrients can be used for anything…… yeah? What’s with the hostility for answering your question? They are just marketed for cannabis, you can mix them in any ratio for any vegetable, tree or flower even.